Garage Door Rough Openings
January 25, 2012 | 
Author One of the most confusing aspects of homebuilding can be the
rough opening for an overhead garage door. It is one of the
most frequent questions I am asked.
The rough opening for a garage door, simply put, is the
actual size of the door itself. For example, if the garage
door is a 7’0″ x 16’0″, then that is the size the rough
opening should be framed to. This is also what the opening
in the foundation should be. The studs and cripples will
then stop right at the edge of the foundation.
The foundation usually drops 8″ to allow the concrete floor
to be poured over the top of it. This has to be accounted
for when figuring the length of the cripples to get the
right height of the overhead door header. Normally the
floor is poured 3″ below the top of the foundation wall. If
the overhead door is 7′ then 4 and 1/2″ is subtracted from
that height. This is the 3″ drop and 1 1/2″ for the bottom
plate. Your total cripple length would be 6′ 7 1/2″.
Once the floor is poured, the door jambs can be installed.
The width of these jamb pieces vary with the size of the
wall and what the wall is finished with (brick, siding,
dryvit, etc). The header piece is installed first, then the
two side pieces. These go from the header to the finished
concrete floor. Once the jambs are in the door can be
installed. With the door installed the door stops are then
put on either with or without weatherstripping.
If you know the door size of your overhead door, you know
the rough opening. From there its determining where to start
and stop your framing.
(c) Mike Merisko http://www.sawkerfs.com
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Backyard Storage Sheds – Do I Need a Building Permit?
Unfortunately every city and township in the country is different in regards to building permits for backyard storage sheds. I strongly suggest you make an anonymous call to you local building department before you start shopping for a shed so you have an idea on the size you are allowed to get and any other codes you need to know.
Play stupid, tell them you want to build a backyard storage shed in your yard, what do you have to do.
Most cities have size and height restrictions. The size is measured in square feet, width times length equals square feet.
I suggest you get the largest shed allowed in your local community. I have heard my shed is too small thousands of times. Very few cities allow more then one accessory building so unless you want to tear the building down and build another, get the size right the first time.
Other restrictions may concern the placement of the shed in your yard. Most cities will have a distance it must be off of your property lines and how far away from other structures or easements it must be.
If a permit is required your city may ask for a plot plan, building schematic and a picture of the shed. You can use a photo from the brochure the shed seller has and they also should provide you with a building schematic.
You can draw your own plot plan. The building department will want to see your lot size, where your home is located on the lot, the distance the home is from the rear property line and the location of the backyard storage shed. For your home and future shed, just draw squares or rectangles in their approximate location.
Some cities will require a permit and some won’t.
I always recommend that permits are applied for if required. If you decide to build a backyard storage shed without a permit and the building department finds out, they can really make your life miserable for quite awhile.
You can’t fight city hall.
5 Best Dual Sim Touchscreen 3g Mobile Phones
The use of mobile phones by the people all over the world is reaching to its peak day by day. The Mobile Companies also compete with each other to launch different mobile phones with scintillating features and participate in the competitive mobile market. The mobile lovers also wish to own a mobile phone that features with dual SIM, touch screen and 3G technologies. They also expect all these salient features in a single mobile phone within the price tag of Rs.10,000/- (around $222).
Samsung B5722
Samsung Company has introduced their first touch screen mobile Samsung B5722 with a dual SIM facility. The mobile features with a 3.2 megapixel camera, 30 MB memory which extends up to 8 GB and offers a talk time of 14 hours and a stand by time of 20 full days. The users need not switch off the mobile if they wish to change over from one SIM to the next one.
Samsung B5722 is provided with an FM Radio, a 2.8″ QVGA screen which displays a high of 2,62,000 various colors. Though 3G technologies are missing, the mobile is supported with GPRS, EDGE, Blue Tooth and Micro SD cards. You can buy a Samsung B5722 mobile phone at Rs.11,680/-.
Acer DX900
Unlike the Samsung mobile, the dual SIM Acer DX900 comes to the users with Windows facilities. This features with 106×60.5×17 megapixels and a resolution capacity of 480 x 640 megapixels. It is a very handy camera mobile phone with a 3.15 megapixels camera (with LED Flash) and a TFT Touch Screen which offers 65,000 fantastic colors.
Acer DX900 features with a 30 MB internal memory, Blue Tooth and an MP3 Player. The splendid connectivity features are Wi-Fi, USB Connector, GPRS, EDGE and above all it is provided with a 3G technology. Acer DX900 offers a talk time of 10 hours and a stand by time of 150 hours with its powerful battery. The greatest mobile phone Acer DX900 with all the required specifications is marketed at the cost of Rs.29,300/- which is competitive.
Samsung D880
Samsung D880 Duos is another great product of Samsung Company with a steel front panel which has a handsome look. This dual SIM mobile phone can display a 2.3″ QVGA and it offers 256K colors in the TFT touch screen with a resolution capacity of 240 x 320 megapixels. It is provided with a 3.0 megapixel digital camera, auto focus and quality video facilities.
In Samsung D880 there is a lack of 3G technology and is compensated with dual SIM feature, micro SD memory card slot, an FM Radio, Blue Tooth with A2DP, MS Office Document Viewer, and easily operated key board. The 60 MB internal memory card expands up to 2 GB and the provisions of USB Connector, GPRS and EDGE are additional features. Samsung D880 Duos offers a talk time of 4 hours and the stand by time of 360 hours. This mobile phone is marketed at the price of Rs.9,940/-
Fly E 106 Touch
The tiny and metallic based camera mobile phone Fly E 106 Touch comes to you with exciting features. The 2.4″ QVGA touch screen displays 262K colors which are provided with a 2 MP camera along with a LED Flash that offers sharp pictures. Fly E 106 Touch is basically a dual SIM mobile phone with motion sensor and MSN live integration.
Fly E 106 Touch has a resolution capacity of 240 x 320 megapixels and the additional features are FM Radio, MP3 Player, Blue Tooth, USB Connector and GPRS. It is provided with a high of 744 MB internal memory and the battery offers a talk time of 4 hours and a stand by time of 240 hours and unfortunately the 3G technology is missing. This specially featured Fly E 106 Touch costs just Rs.5,100/-.
Samsung Duos W256
Samsung again introduced its best dual SIM (GSM and CDMA) handy mobile phone in the name as ‘Samsung Duos W256′. It has a 2.2″ QVGA TFT touch screen display and possesses 240 x 320 megapixels allowing a high range of 2,62,000 different colors. The 10 MB internal memory that extends up to 8 GB micro SD card, capable of storing 1000 entries along with 200 messages.
Samsung Duos W256 offers a 1.3 megapixel camera with a resolution capacity of 1280 x 960 megapixels. It also features with GPRS, Blue Tooth v2.1 with A2DP connectivity and a hi-speed micro USB Port. The mobile can record videos and decode formats in H.263, 3GPP and MPEG4. The mobile tracker feature is an additional provision along with MP3 Player and an FM Radio. Samsung Duos W256 comes with a Java-enabled games, pictures, ring tones, e-mail and MS-Office Suite facilities. The Li-Ion 1140 mAh batteries offer a talk time of 250 hours and a standby time of 5 hours. The mobile comes to you at the price tag of Rs.6,820/- only.
Troubleshooting your Cable Box
Unless you’ve recently moved from Alaska to Texas and you’re feeling a little homesick, chances are that the last thing you want to see when you turn on your TV is snow. Combine a snowy screen with that loud, obnoxious static sound, and you’ve got a problem on your hands. Fortunately you don’t have to be techie to fix your cable box – just follow these simple troubleshooting steps to get picture back in no time.
Cable Box Basics
Make sure your cable box is plugged in. I know that sounds silly, but after troubleshooting these things over the phone professionally, you can trust me on this one. Save yourself the time and embarrassment of calling a professional just to have them tell you to plug it in. That goes for the rest of the essential equipment as well (i.e. TV, VCR or DVR if you’re running the signal through one, etc.). It wouldn’t hurt to make sure the TV is on the correct channel – usually channel 3 or 4 or one of the input channels.
Make sure all the cables are connected. Even if you’re TV and cable box are both turned on, you won’t see a picture unless they are connected. Check each connection to ensure it is tight and that none of the wires or connecting pieces is damaged. Also check to see that the connections are all correct – meaning, video and audio should be going out of your cable or satellite box to your TV “in” ports. The signal should follow a logical path. If the connections are correct but you’re still not seeing any picture, replace the cables to see if that solves the problem. If you’re running the signal through a DVR or VCR and having problems, skip the middle man and plug the cables straight from the box to the TV. If you get a picture you know you’re problem is in the VCR.
After making sure everything is on and the cable connections are all correct, try rebooting your system. Each company’s receivers have different methods of rebooting, but one fairly universal way is to unplug the box for 10 to 20 seconds and then plug it back in. Do not just turn the box off and back on again – you’ll need to actually pull the plug out of the wall and then put it back in again. Once the cable box is plugged back in, turn the power on and cross your fingers. If you’re still not receiving any picture, unplug the receiver again for up to one minute and then plug it back in. This may be tedious and time-consuming, especially when you’re missing the fight of the year or the Super Bowl, but give it the full minute – you’ll spend less time doing it yourself than you will waiting for a repairman to come out and fix it.
Fuzzy Picture or Sound
If you are getting a picture but no sound; or sound but no picture; or a fuzzy picture or sound, recheck the cable connections to make sure they are tightened and that the wires or connecting pieces are undamaged. Poor picture or sound is typically caused by one of three problems: poor wire connections, signal interference, or TV settings.
Going outside to make sure nothing is interfering with your signal will help with the second problem. Of course, if you have underground cables there is not much you can do about making sure they are clear of interference (that’s read, “Your neighbor cut through it while gardening”). If you have a satellite dish, know that excessive rain or snow buildup on the dish can cause signal interference. Use caution when checking your dish, especially if it is on your roof or some other hard-to-reach place around your house. The installer should have verified that no trees or other objects would interfere with your signal from the satellites, but take a quick look around to see if new foliage is blocking the signal. If it is not on your property, do not cut or remove anything without prior permission from the property owner.
Finally, adjusting your TV settings can help when you are receiving a clear signal and all the connections are fine. Horizontal and vertical settings are the adjustments that most often need to be made, but consulting your owner’s manual can give you a better indication of other settings that can be tweaked.
Troubleshooting requires patience, so make some lemonade, roll up your sleeves, and get started. If none of these suggestions work (9 times out of 10 they will), contact your service provider. They may have additional troubleshooting steps or resources they can make available to you to get your cable or satellite TV up and running.
DUI Records and Pre-Employment Background Checks
If you’ve recently been arrested and/or convicted of a DUI or drunk driving offense there are many things to consider before actually disclosing your DUI on a job application. First, if you are eligible to clear the DUI record (immediately or in the near future) it might make more sense to explore those avenues before you apply for a job that you really want.
9 times out of 10 most every employer will do a pre-employment background check on you and will uncover the DUI offense which most likely will cause them not to hire you. Most pre-employment background checks are conducted by 3rd party HR companies that are contracted by your potential employer specifically to do background checks. A lot of the big companies use the same outsourced HR company to do their checks so if you get flagged within their system that could in effect ruin your chances of ever getting hired from any company who uses them to perform pre-employment background checks.
So it’s definitely something you want to think about and clear up BEFORE you apply and agree to a background check.
But if you take the steps to clear or expunge the DUI record prior to applying for the job there is a good chance that they will never find out about it. So, by spending a little bit of time and educating yourself on what you need to do to take care of your record could pay off big time.
Not every state allows the clearing or expunging of DUI records but even in those states that won’t clear your record there are remedies to minimize the damage by keeping it from showing up on background checks. You can get more information at www.duiprocess.com
How to Get Rid of Trojan Virus – 5 Easy Steps to Get Rid of Trojan Horse Virus
Before we can know how to get rid of trojan virus we need to specify exactly what it is and how it differs from a normal computer virus. A trojan horse virus is a form of malware (malicious software) that leaves your computer open to attack, and derives its name from the famous Greek legend of The Trojan Horse.
The Trojan Horse was used by the ancient Greeks to trick their way into the once impregnable city of the Trojans (Troy) and secretly send in soldiers to open the gates and allow the rest of the Greek army in to take over and conquer the city.
In the same way, computer trojan viruses disguise themselves as seemingly harmless pieces of software or desired files, but then “open the gates” to other forms of malicious software, spyware, keyloggers etc…leaving you open to anything from someone stealing your credit card information, to some basement-dwelling geek gaining remote access to your computer and files. So the trojan virus’ real damage is done in its ability to compromise your computer’s security and leave it open to other dangers.
So while a normal computer virus is lethal in itself and can “mutate” and infect other parts of your system, the trojan allows other digital nasties in through the back door. The good news is that this makes it easier to identify and get rid of trojan virus.
How did you get the trojan virus on your computer?
As mentioned above, the trojan virus is often disguised as a normal looking file, so maybe it was an mp3 music file, a patch for a game, an online video, or even a jpeg image file. Either way, it’s on your computer, so how do you get rid of trojan horse virus?
Here are the 5 things you need to do right now to get rid of trojan horse virus and avoid it returning:
1. Make sure your anti-virus software is up-to-date and includes all the latest patches and virus, spyware definitions. This will be your first port of call when trying to get rid of trojan virus.
2. Run a system and registry scan to identify the evil trojan virus and then zap it into oblivion to get rid of it. Since it resides within an unimportant file you can easily delete it to get rid of trojan virus – whereas other computer viruses are more tricky to get rid of and need to be “quarantined” to stop them infecting other files on your system.
3. If you know the name of the trojan horse virus then you can check online for information on how to get rid of the trojan virus in question. Microsoft has regular updates on it’s site about trojan viruses that affect Windows machines. Online forums also provide you a wealth of information about how to get rid of a trojan horse virus.
4. You could also try to get rid of the trojan virus manually. Check your Task Manager (press Ctrl +Alt +Del on Windows) to identify any programs that may be running in the background that shouldn’t be – i.e. they started without your knowledge. If you see any such program, make a note of it’s name, click its name to highlight it and click End Task. Open your Control Panel (click the Start menu) and use the Add/Remove programs to find the nasty blighter in question and get rid of it. Be careful with this though as you may end up wrongly deleting a file that is important to your system.
5. Overall you should take a look at your online habits and see how certain actions may compromise the security of your computer and your personal information. If you use Peer-2-Peer (P2P) file-sharing networks then take extra care on what you download, and make sure everything is run through your anti-virus / spyware scanning software first, to get rid of trojan virus that may be attempting to access your system.
How many of your personal details do you enter on your computer on a regular basis? For instance, do you bank online, or pay bills or a credit card? Perhaps you buy gifts and other purchases online? According to CNN, if you use the internet there is a 90% chance that your computer is infected with spyware. How can you be sure that your information is not being viewed by a third party right now?
Hook Up A Receiver For Your Home Theater
What is a Receiver?
A receiver is that big, heavy thing that you plug your speakers and other components into (like a DVD player, TV, CD player, Xbox, PlayStation, iPod, and etc.). Its the “brain” of the show, really. The idea of connecting all your components to a receiver is the concept of audio/video switching, allowing you to switch to different video sources (like TV, DVD, camcorder) on your TV
and thus changing the audio source accordingly – all without touching anything but the receiver.
Of course, the main purpose behind audio/video switching with a receiver is to drive audio to external speakers, like surround sound or stereo speakers.
Most receivers have a plethora of inputs; up to 8 speakers and a subwoofer (more commonly, 5.1, or five speakers and a subwoofer), several video inputs, and even HDMI inputs. You could plug your Xbox, Plasma, and DVD player into the receiver and use one remote to switch between all the different video sources (games, TV, DVD video) and have your speakers pump out surround-sound. Let’s start with inputs and outputs. If you don’t understand something, read through the entire How-To as most of it will be explained in detail.
Keep in mind that a receiver is the hub of your entire home theatre, so this How-To will actually guide you through the basics of connecting your complete home theater.
So what the heck is all this ‘stuff’ on the back of your receiver?
I’m going to go over just about anything that you would find on the back of your receiver. The one I’m basing this guide off of is a Harman Kardon AVR-247 I’m going to start from the top left of the unit and work my way to the right, then I’ll start at the left of the next row and so on.
The first three inputs are for antennas. An FM antenna cable would slide on to the first jack while two speaker wires would plug into the remaining slots for AM. Of course, you don’t have to plug your antennas in, but if you’d like AM/FM reception through your speakers, you’ll want to go ahead and do that. These are standard connections, so if you lose one of your antennas, just go buy another for a few bucks.
You’ve probably heard of composite video. Its a very basic video connection used by most any component (TV, DVD, VCR especially). Its common and its cheap. As such, its very low quality.
Composite uses an RCA cable for video (yellow) and two more RCA cables for audio (red and white, stereo). The problem is that a composite video cable combines luminance and chrominance in the same cable, reducing the quality of the picture. You lose a lot of sharpness, and the color begins to degrade from the original source. Its useful when you need the extra input or the device you’re connecting only has composite video. Otherwise, use something else, like component video. Sounds similar; very different.
S-Video is next in line after composite. It uses a different type of connector (five pins in a circle) and gives you marginally better video quality. It is also a video-only cable, so you’ll need to plug in audio separately. In this case, you’ll probably use a pair of red and white RCA cables for your audio inputs.
Next up: a ton of composite audio inputs. These inputs use left channel and right channel RCA cables, typically red and white. They look just like the yellow composite video cable, and you could even use them for video and the yellow for audio, but let’s keep the color scheme how it is 
Composite audio is the bottom-of-the-barrel in audio. Its perfectly fine for most use, but if you’re looking for high quality surround sound, you don’t want composite. Game systems, like the Wii or Xbox, and very basic DVD players are a perfect match for composite audio.
The same goes to VCRs, CD players, and anything that only has a composite audio output. Plus, if you don’t have surround sound, or your receiver is only two channels (2.1, stereo sound), you won’t be able to use anything but composite audio. Note that there is a composite audio input under each composite video input so that it is easy to match them up. Plug them in the wrong inputs and you won’t get sound when you’re on that particular video input.
Here we have one of the least-used features of a modern receiver: 6 (or 
channel direct input. This is only used for two purposes: SACD or DVD Audio. SACD is an acronym for Super Audio CD. It is a proprietary audio format developed by Sony for special CDs that are recorded in 5.1 surround sound. That means you need a CD or DVD/CD player that supports SACDs, a receiver with SACD support (as in the picture), and of course Super Audio CD’s. DVD Audio is the same idea, different brand, different media (its a DVD, not a CD!).
DVD Audio discs are special DVDs that are recorded in 5.1 surround sound and can only be played by devices with support for them. These CDs go all the way up to 7.1 surround sound, meaning you would need to have two front, two rear, two side speakers and a subwoofer to enjoy full 7.1 surround sound. Most receivers support up to 7.1 now but you won’t find DVDs with that kind of capability for movies. 5.1 surround is still the defacto standard, so don’t run out and buy more speakers any time soon.
You could skip this next little item because it is unique to this brand of receiver (Harman Kardon). The Bridge” is a proprietary connection they developed for you to connect
an iPod. You need to buy a separate component that includes a docking station and special cables to connect the iPod. It fully integrates with the receiver, displaying
menus and songs on the front LCD screen of the receiver. This allows you to easily pump your tunes through your speakers, whether it be stereo sound or full surround sound.
Of course, the music on your iPod is stereo sound, so the best you can get is simulated surround sound or stereo surround; the same music playing in the front two channels
is put through the rear and center channels. Some receivers do this more intelligently than others, but more on that later.
Here we have our high-end sound inputs/outputs. Basically the same performance wise, you have fiber optic connections (with the square shape) and digital coaxial (just like an RCA cable).
Both of these are 100% digital, whereas composite is analog. The only way you can get true surround sound from any source is by using one of these connections (or the SACD/DVD Audio option)
Almost all DVD players these days have either optical or digital coaxial outputs (sometimes, both). Many high definition cable and satellite boxes also come with these
connections so you can enjoy 5.1 surround sound on high definition channels. Choosing between the two, there’s really no different in audio quality, so feel free to use
what you’d like (or what you’re forced to).
I don’t think I need an image for the next plug. Its a pair of power inputs. One is for powering the receiver, the other for whatever you’d like. This way, when you turn
on the receiver, you give power to the other device (be it a DVD player, CD player, cable box, whatever). I don’t necessarily recommend this unless it specifically suits
your needs. It is useful if you’re running low on outlets, of course.
Something else you’ll never use: D-bus RC-5 input/output. This is used for infrared remote controls to take over your home theater system. Honestly, its not something any of us will ever use. Some of the real high-end junkies might be using something for it, but I’ve never even come across a device that uses this technology. Stick to the remote that came with your unit, or buy a quality universal remote control. There’s no need for this option. An alternate use for this may be a bit more common: if your receiver’s front panel is blocked (like inside a cabinet), you could get an infrared transmitter to latch on to the front of it. This transmitter would hook up to another device somewhere in your room that will accept signals from your remote control. The receiving device then transmits the remote’s commands to your receiver (via the transmitter you’ve attached to the front over the regular infrared transmitter).
Pre-outs , located right under the Remote in/out. Pre-outs are used when you’d like to add an amplifier to your system to boost the power (and hence volume/audio quality). Average
users will not use this for anything but the subwoofer preout. You’ll want to run a subwoofer cable from your subwoofer to the subwoofer pre-out to provide it with
the right frequencies. This is the proper way to connect your subwoofer to your surround sound system. The other inputs won’t be used unless you plan on adding
an amplifier. This is highly unnecessary for home use. You might add an amp if you’re trying to fill a room the size of a small house with enough sound, but you’re not, right?
Here we finally get to the meat of the system: the speaker inputs! Harman Kardon receivers use bind posts for connecting speakers, as seen in the picture. They
work by being loosened up as your turn them counter-clockwise, then you sneak the speaker wire in underneath the caps and tighten them back up by turning clockwise. This’ll
give your speaker wire a nice tug fit that probably won’t loosen up on itself over time. Other brands may use other types of connectors, but bind posts are very common.
You might have been able to tell this is a 7.1 channel receiver because of the speaker inputs.
You’ve got room for 2 front left and right speakers, 2 rear left and right speakers,
a center channel, and two left and right “surround” channels which are placed somewhere in between your front and rear speakers (“side surround”, or 7.1). If you have enough
speakers, you can go ahead and plug in those extra 2 side ones, but they won’t play any sound at all on a 5.1 DVD. You would need a DVD that supports 7.1
surround sound, and at this time, there just isn’t a market for it. CDs will gladly blast stereo surround through all 7 speakers, though, so for some larger rooms, that’s an
advantage.
Our final set of connectors for this receiver: component video . The best video you can get next to composite or s-video. You’ll notice its a set of three cables (all for video),
usually Red, Green and Blue. Don’t think that’s what the cable does, though – it separates the video signal by luminance and two separate color channels. In the past, component
did it in fact represent R, G, B (splitting the primary colors in transmit and recombining them at the destination device), but that is not used in current component video
connections. Component video can carry high definition signals, all the way up to 1080p, so it is the most cost effective and readily available high definition input.
Not seen on this receiver are DVI and HDMI, the two all-digital video connections.
HDMI is the newest, fastest, sharpest video and audio connection available today. Its the only cable that can carry audio and video in one – not to mention, in high definition.
HDMI must be supported by the source and the display you’re connecting it to to use all of its features. Not all DVD players, cable boxes, or receivers support both
audio and video in HDMI. Its becoming more and more of a standard now to support both. The advantage is clear: less cable clutter, higher quality audio and video. You can get up
to 1080p high definition video and 7.1 surround sound through an HDMI cable. Newer cable and satellite boxes, DVD players, high definition DVD players, and more expensive receivers
support the full capability of HDMI. Its the best you can get as all-digital goes.
The last connection for this article is DVI. DVI is also all digital like HDMI, but it cannot process audio signals. HDMI may provide a technically superior image,
but I don’t think anyone could tell the difference. DVI supports high definition video all the way up to 1080p, just like HDMI. Its being used less frequently now,
but if you’ve bought a new computer or video card for your PC recently, it probably has a DVI (or two) port on it. Most computer monitors use DVI now and video cards
have followed suit. HDMI is edging its way into the PC market, but its dominance is seen in the home theater arena.
Now that you’ve familiarized yourself with common connections, let’s plug it all together.
This part of the receiver How-To is going to guide you through hooking a 5.1 surround sound system(5 speakers and a subwoofer) with a high-definition TV, a high-definition cable or satellite box, a DVD player, and a 5.1 receiver.
Your TV & Components
Where you put your TV is dependent on how large it is, how large your room is, and where you will be sitting. If its 50 inches, don’t sit more than 10-15 feet away; but no less, either.
A 60″ set is perfect for 12-20 feet. If you have a 32 inch set, try to sit no farther than 8-12 feet away. Your receiver, DVD player, cable box, and other components should obviously be close together, but don’t place them physically on top of each other. They all get hot, especially your receiver. If you have no other choice, slide a thin piece of plywood between the components to help dispense the heat.
Lay Out of Speakers
The first step is to lay out your setup. Different rooms call for different locations for your speakers and subwoofer. If your room is a typical rectangle, go ahead and place your two front left and right speakers somewhere flush with the television on that side of the room. Your left speaker goes toward the left corner, right speaker toward the right corner. Don’t bother with speaker wire yet (unless your speakers come with speaker wire attached already; in that case, just let them dangle for now). Note that which speaker is left or right is solely dependent on how you connect them to your receiver. Your speakers aren’t actually designated “left” or “right”.
Depending on how you acquired your speakers, your front speakers could be larger than your rear speakers. That’s how you know they’re for the front. Otherwise, all your speakers are the same shape and size, and you can use each for any purpose.
One exception: the center channel. Usually, a center channel is much shorter and wider than your other speakers. It should only be used for the center channel. Sometimes, all 5 of your speakers could be the same, usually on a very inexpensive setup. You can use any of these speakers for any purpose.
Your center channel should always go either directly on top or under your television set. However you have to do this, get it done! It’s not called the center channel for nothing, you know. Any movie will pump out almost 90% of the voices you hear and a majority of the rest of the sounds through the center channel. It is a vitally important component to your surround sound setup.
Your subwoofer should always be on the floor. If it is impossible to place it on the floor, get it as close to the floor as possible. Placing it behind objections or in closets will diminish its effects. In a perfect setup, the subwoofer would be on the floor close to the TV (perhaps off to the left or right) in your line of sight. Nothing should block the side of the subwoofer that air will come out of (usually covered by a grill protecting the subwoofer speaker itself).
When it comes to finding a good spot for your speakers, you might want to mount them. You can usually buy compatible speaker mounts online or in stores. You can also
use existing shelving, buy some shelving, or place them on tables or other objects. No matter how you do it, try to keep the speakers as close to ear level as possible. A speaker mounted at the ceiling of your room isn’t going to give you the optimal aural experience.
The last thing to keep in mind about layout is speaker wire. You’ll probably need at least 100ft of speaker wire, but you’ll often find yourself using much more if you
try running wire through your ceiling, under carpeting, up through the basement, or around objects to conceal it. Take measurements and buy at least 10% more wire than
you think you need. You’ll probably use it!
Cabling
You need to know the different kind of speaker wire available to you before setting up your home theatre. If you bought an HTIB (home theater in a box), it probably came with 100ft of horribly cheap speaker wire. You don’t want that! Do yourself a favor: buy some high-quality, 14-guage speaker wire. Anything higher than 14-guage is just to thin and will be susceptible to interence, quality loss, and poor quality over longer distances. Fourteen guage is a good thickness and suitable for most home theatres. Make sure its also not too thick – some speaker wire simply will not fit in to the speaker wire jacks on some receivers.
Some receivers use proprietary speaker inputs. Sony is one example. Many Sony receivers have special connectors for speaker wire and will not accept a standard speaker wire. You’ll need to use either the Sony-provided speaker wire, take the ends off of Sony speaker wire and put it on your own, or buy some of these special connectors from Sony directly to place on your speaker wire. My recommendation? Avoid any receivers with non-standard speaker wire posts/jacks/connectors. Look for bind posts or other jacks that allow you to slide in and clamp down on a typical speaker wire.
Once you’ve got your speaker wire sorted out, you’ll have to do some cutting and stripping if you opted to purchase your own. This is way easier than it sounds, so don’t worry!
Measure out each length one at a time, cutting the speaker wire with either really great scissors or a sharp blade. Now you need to strip the ends of the wire. Use either a stripping tool or plain old scissors. You can place the scissors on the cable and gently apply some pressure as you twist the scissors around the cable, carefully slicing into the plastic coating. Eventually, it’ll get weak enough that you can just slide it off by tugging on it with your fingers. You need at least 1/4″ of exposed wire.
Now you can connect your speakers. Note on your speaker wire the difference between the two ends. You’ll need to use one as your positive and one as your negative. Sometimes the coating is a different color between the two or there is text on one and not on the other. Keep track of this – whichever side you use for positive on your speaker, use it for positive on your receiver. Crossing the two can cause damage, either immediately or sometime in the future. It might work this way but you don’t want it to!
Connecting the speakers is easy enough. Front left to front left on your receiver, center speaker to center on your receiver, etc… Your rear speakers may be referred to as “Surround” or “Rear Surround” instead of just “Rear”, but keep in mind, if you have a 7.1 or 8.1 channel receiver, “Surround” may indicate side surround speakers, not rear speakers.
Subwoofers
Your subwoofer is going to be a little more complicated. There are a few different ways to do it and many variations of inputs/ouputs on the back side of subwoofers. I’m going to go with the most standard and efficient method first.
You will need a subwoofer cable for connecting your sub. If you don’t have one or don’t want to buy one, you can substitute it for a standard red or white RCA cable (or a pair, since they are usually connected; just let the other cable dangle). It will work, but its really not the best way to do it. You’ll also need whats called a Y adapter. On the back of your sub, there should be a left/right input (red and white). You plug the Y adapter in to these connections and then your subwoofer cable (or RCA cable) in the other end of the Y (note: if you don’t have a Y adapter, just choose the left or right input to plug into).
Now, take the other end of your cable and plug it into your receiver’s
subwoofer preout. Hopefully you have a powered sub, meaning it gets plugged into an AC power outlet. All you need to do now is plug that in and your subwoofer is good to.
If you don’t have RCA jacks on your subwoofer, or it only has speaker wire jacks (and its most likely not powered), you’ll need to connect it the old fashioned way. Your front left and right speakers will plug into your subwoofer’s ouput jacks instead of your receiver. You’ll then run speaker wire from the left and right inputs on the subwoofer to your left and right speaker outputs on your receiver. This way, the subwoofer is powered by the receiver and will not work as well as a powered sub. You also take some power away from your front speakers with this method. A good idea is to buy a new, powered subwoofer with line in RCA jacks.
Connecting the Dots
You’ve got the hard stuff out of the way. Now finish it up by connecting your TV, DVD, and cable/satellite box. Always try using the best options first. If your DVD
has HDMI and so does your receiver, use it. If your DVD only has composite, s-video, and component, use component video cable. When it comes to audio, you absolutely need
to use digital coaxial (jacks are usually orange) or fiber optic (usually the jack is recessed into the unit and has a door on it; when the door is open, a red light is visible). If you do not use either of these two, you won’t get true surround sound! When all else fails, resort to composite (red and white) audio connectors.
Note: Look closely at the connections on your receiver. Everything is labeled, like the first set of red, green, and blue component video inputs might be labeled “Comp 1″. If you’re using composite audio cablesfor your sound, you’ll need to plug them into the jacks that coordinate with “Comp 1″. This might not be clear by looking at the receiver, so refer to your receiver’s manual to figure out which video inputs use which audio inputs. Most often, you’ll be able to configure them from the receiver’s internal menu using the remote control.
On some receivers, all the component video inputs, for example, are linked to a single composite audio input (usually “DVD”), so if you connect more than one of the component inputs, you will be competing for sound when more than one device is active. This is why you’d want to configure the component inputs to use different audio inputs.
Your manual is the only way to figure out how to go about it. Composite video will usually match up to composite audio inputs with naming conventions like Video 1 -> Video 1, Video 2 -> Video 2, etc., but cables like component and DVI may not. You should also configure digital audio inputs to match up with the video inputs you’re planning on using. For example, if you’re using a digital coaxial input (possibly “Digital 1″), and you use component video, you’ll want to match “Digital 1″ with “Comp 1″. Again, refer to your users manual for how to do this.
A Helpful Book Report Example
Have you been assigned a book report that is left to a bit confused and frustrated about how one where to begin? Perhaps seeing a book report example would be just the ticket to help you get up and running. Well, instead of quitting and tossing the book, the notebook, the PC across the room, take a look at some examples, book report examples:
ASK PEOPLE
One tried-and-true method of learning is imitation. I don’t mean COPYING (which is not too ethical and will usually get you get you in hot water…cause somebody always catches on). What I’m talking about is how someone else performed the task. The techniques and styles that worked best. Things such as length, first or third person narrative and other such distinctions. Here’s a few folks that I think if you go to for the help you need:
The first place to start is with the instructor that assigned the book report, or a teacher you consider a mentor.
Ask friends, parents, or your brothers and sisters who have already done the assignment and knows what it takes. But remember, never, ever copy someone else’s work.
Ask a librarian for book report examples, perhaps how-to books would be beneficial. Be sure to distinguish between the report and the review for whomever you ask.
CONSULT HOW-TO BOOKS
These are some other pieces where book report examples can be had:
How to Write Terrific Book Reports, by Elizabeth James – A Student Survival Guide, this book spells out a clear definition/description of a book report, a chapter on how to decide which book to read, a chapter on using library resources, and many more chapters on how to get the most out of the book to the inland. Other discussions include how to get organized, writing drafts, and even doing oral reports. This book also has four pages of sample book reports which are incredibly helpful because they give concrete example of effective book reports.
How to Write Book Reports, by Dawn B. Sova and Harry Teitelbaum – a step-by-step book on authoring reports, identifying the distinctions between reports and reviews, qualifications of reviewers, note-taking for reports, and many more easy to follow guidelines. This book also contains several sample reports and reviews.
CONSULT QUALITY WEBSITES
The very same way you would for any type of school assignment you may have, when you are accessing book report examples on the internet, carefully review the sites to make sure that they’re up to snuff, affective sites. That is, avoid the wacko pages or sites that are hostile, that use illegal methods, or that are just weak, inferior, or useless to you. (A number of guides on how to find credible sources online are available through your library, your school, and online.) You know that went from a good one when you see them, but just the same here are some of the keepers:
TeensPoint.org – has a special section called “Reading Matters.”
TeenInk.com -has a section with teen reviews (which as of this writing numbered 622 book reviews).
NancyMatson.com – offers a recommended book of the month (and rational for the recommendation), as well as a whole bevy of book reviews.
More than that, you can find a form for an Example Reading Report at http://www1.harenet.ne.jp/~waring/er/readreport.html — which will give you a point by point checklist of things that should be included in your book report.
Whichever way you decide to go, remember to be your own reporter in the end shall go with something that you care about, the book that elicits passion… threw out the process of reading and writing. That is, squeeze as much fun as you possibly can out of it since you have to do the assignment anyway.
FAQ on Modifying the Toyota Supra
What does BPU(TM) stand for? (BPU(TM) is a trademark of SupraStore.com)
Basic Performance Upgrades. These modifications are: A full length three inch down-pipe (with or with-out high flow cats), 3″ (75mm) or bigger cat-back exhaust system, raised boost (18psi), and the required boost cut eliminator (GReddy BCC) needed to achieve that boost without activating the factory fuel cut-off at 14-15psi. These are the modifications that have proven to provide the best HP-to-$$$ ratio.
What does the + mean when someone says BPU(TM)+? And what is APU?
That stands for any additional power producing modifications other than the basic BPU(TM) modifications. One “+” refers to Adj. Cam Gears and under-drive pulleys, the second “+” refers to a Fuel controller, ECU upgrade, etc. For instance, a Supra with the BPU(TM) modifications, plus a front-mount intercooler, would be called BPU(TM)+. If you added cam gears to that, it would be BPU(TM)++, and so on. The “BPU(TM)” term is used until you have an upgraded turbo(s). Then it is referred to as APU, advanced performance upgrades. This designation pretty much covers every modification that can be performed.
What are the first engine modifications I should perform?
I recommend starting with raising the boost of the stock turbos to roughly 18psi. This will require a quality boost gauge and a boost cut eliminator (GReddy BCC). You will achieve 15 or so PSI with the stock Down Pipe in place. This will provide an addition of approximately 30rwhp. After those modifications are completed, it would be a logical next step to install the Down Pipe and Cat-Back Exhaust at the same time. You will now be at full BPU(TM).
What do all the various “Free Mods” do?
There are many different “free mods” for the Supra TT. I will cover just a few of them here. The ones I will cover fall into three categories, boost control, EGR disabling, and TTC or True Twin Conversion.
Three of the boost control mods are: Bleeder-T Mod, Clamp Mod, and the VSV Bypass Mod. Each of these modifications raise boost levels without the use of a boost controller. But you have to keep a close eye on your boost gauge, and make sure they are not allowing the turbos to boost too high (18psi is a safe level).
The next mods, are the true twin conversion mods (or TTC). This modification disables the Sequential twin turbo operation, and causes the turbos to run constantly in parallel (both on at the same time). This is supposed to allow for slightly better mid-range power (before the secondary turbo would normally come online) and allows for a smoother power band, without the abrupt boost increase caused by the transition from primary to secondary operation. However, this does noticeably decrease low-end power, and increases exhaust noise levels, and therefore may not be desirable on the street. Two types of the TTC mod are, the traditional TTC mod which includes 2 methods, wiring the actuators, or installing a one way valve, and the Electronic TTC mod (ETTC).
The last mod I will discuss is the EGR mod. This disables the Exhaust Gas Recirculation system, which is meant for emissions, and therefore, this modification is for off-road use only. This mod is supposed to prevent the super heating of the number 5 and 6 cylinders, which may cause burnt valves.
How much power will my car make at BPU(TM)?
It varies from car-to-car, and the conditions as well as tuning. Most BPU(TM)-only Supra Twin Turbos, dyno between 370 and 410 horsepower at the rear wheels. This is usually achieved with moderate temperatures, a reset ECU (to erase anything bad the ECU may have learned), and often a little bit of high-octane un-leaded race fuel. On the street, power will be reduced, especially in poor weather, but at least 90 percent of the power should be retained.
What kind of 1/4 mile ETs and trap speeds should I run at BPU(TM)-only?
It varies WIDELY depending on driver skill. As well as track conditions, elevation above sea level, ambient temperatures, humidity, and pre-race preparation. But most fall between 12.3 to 12.9 ets with 112 to 119mph trap speeds on street tires. Times can drop well into the 11s with drag radials, a good driver, and good conditions, as well as proper pre-race preparation.
What is a BPU(TM)’d Supra TT’s top speed?
Speeds in the mid-high 180mph range should be achievable. Once the speed-limiter is disabled, by pulling the “TRAC” fuse of course.
Will the life of my Engine and Drivetrain be adversely affected with the BPU(TM) mods?
Yes, but not by a significant amount. If the car is maintained properly, and the car is treated with some respect for the components, you should maintain much of the power train’s life. Which considering the fact that the Supra is by far one of the most reliable and durable sports cars, it will last longer than most well maintained STOCK sports cars. The only Drivetrain components that will see a significantly shortened life will be the stock clutch. It will more than likely not last much longer than 8-10k miles once at BPU(TM). This especially holds true if the car is making repeated high speed runs using 5th and 6th gear at wide open throttle. If your stock clutch has high mileage on it, or is already starting to slip, you will need to plan on a new high-performance clutch. Also the stock turbos will be subject to a somewhat shortened life span (how short will depend on how you drive and maintain the car, as well as how much boost you will run)
What’s the reliability of a 600hp Supra Turbo?
Chassis, electrical, and suspension components should see little effect on reliability on street driven Supras. The stock 2JZ-GTE engine should hold up pretty well to this power level. Just how long depends on maintenance, and how hard you drive it, and how often. But typically Supras can go for years at this power level. The transmission reliability will depend on whether it’s an Automatic or Manual. A stock automatic will not hold this much power, a built transmission will be required, and it’s reliability will depend on it’s design and construction. The 6spd Manual should hold up just fine, as well as the rear differential and axles.
The only real reliability concerns at these low power levels would surround the actual modifications you perform. Excluding installation short-comings, the components utilized, even very high quality ones, may fall short of factory component reliability, as the built in compromises that exist in everything, would lean more towards the side of ultimate performance, than of ultimate reliability (Keep in mind we are talking about a Toyota here, whose reliabilty standards are exceptionally high) This may include fuel system components, turbo components, and especialy electronic wizardry. Basically a set-up that is either VERY well concieved, or utilizes OE components as much as possible, without over burdening them, would posses *near* stock reliability. And tuning of the components, and component selection, and matching, would play a HUGE role in this.
What are the power limits of the various factory components (Differential, Transmission, Motor, etc.)?
There have really not been enough failures to really pin point a limit for the various power-train components. The motor could fail at factory power levels if it was running dangerously lean. But when well tuned, the motors internals (Pistons, Rods, Crank, Head Gasket etc) are reliable to 700rwhp. But of course at these power levels, if the engine is not set-up and tuned properly, it is literally a bomb waiting to go off, however this would be just as true with a built motor. Some owners have pushed their stock internals to the limit and have well exceeded 800rwhp, and even approached 900rwhp. I still don’t understand how such an over built motor made it past the bean counters at Toyota Corporate.
The 6-speed Getrag is ridiculously strong for an OE transmission. Its limit’s will be affected greatly by driving technique, such as launching, and whether or not power shifting is used. Even driven hard, the Getrag should hold up reasonably well with 700RWHP. If you treat it with some respect, it should be able to handle around 800RWHP or more, although great care and respect will need to be practiced at those levels.
Differential, axle, CV Joint, and drive shaft failures are a VERY rare occurrence. So I don’t have much info on their failure limits. On street tires, it would be almost impossible to break any of these components at ANY power level. The tires would spin before they would put the driveline under that kind of strain. The tires act sort of like a circuit breaker. If you run drag slicks, this does not hold true of course, yet they have proven themselves to be 10 and even 9 second capable.
Will drivability, interior noise levels, and low-end power be adversely affected with the BPU(TM) mods?
Drivability is not adversely affected. Interior noise level depends on the exhaust system you choose. Some will make it far louder; some will actually make it quieter. But most are just a little bit louder than stock. But the added dBs are also combined with a MUCH sweeter exhaust note, so it’s definitely worth it. And the interior of the Supra is pretty quiet anyway, so on the highway, it will be VERY livable. As far as low-end power goes, the down-pipe will greatly decrease Turbo Lag. So low-end power and response is much improved over stock.
Will emissions be adversely affected by the BPU(TM) mods?
As long as a high-flow cat is used, emissions should not be effected, and you should still pass visual inspection. If you run without catalytic converters, you are doing so at your own risk, and you would not pass visual or emissions testing.
Will fuel mileage be adversely affected by the BPU(TM) mods?
If driven calmly, as in light throttle, mileage should not be significantly affected. Mileage will greatly decrease during however, if you drive “vigorously”, more power equals more burned fuel I am afraid.
Should I install an “Intake” (Open Element Filter)?
This is a bit of a yes and no answer. The stock filter assembly is a flow restriction, and an open element intake would increase potential flow. However, it will also draw in more heated engine compartment air, which can hurt performance. My advice is to either modify the stock filter box, or install a cool air induction box, like the Max Air. An added bonus of the open element filters, is that they allow you to easily hear the primary turbo and by-pass valve.
What about the stock intercooler?
The stock intercooler does a decent job up till about 17psi on the stock turbos, after that you would probably notice a significant gain, especially in warmer temperatures, with a nice front mount intercooler. However, keep in mind it will block some of the airflow to the radiator, as well as decreasing response slightly.
Should I replace the factory rubber Intercooler hoses with aftermarket metal hoses?
It wouldn’t hurt. But it won’t help a lot either. At the most you may slightly increase throttle response, but at least it will look nicer.
What about the fuel system, are the stock injectors and fuel pump large enough for BPU(TM)?
Yes, the stock fuel system is very safe and reliable to 450RWHP, although I would recommend a fuel pulsation damper bypass. Anything over that, and I would highly recommend having the car dyno’d, and using a wide-band O2 sensor (not a cheap A/F gauge connected to the stock O2) to check the fuel ratio at your high boost setting. 11.5:1 would be a safe fuel ratio.
What are the stock injectors rated at?
540cc/min
Would the Supra benefit from a fuel controller?
BPU(TM)’d Supras run a little on the rich side as far as fuel ratios go. This hurts power. What it does do is provide a safety margin that makes engine damage through detonation unlikely. If you get a fuel controller, and tune it properly (on a dyno, with an accurate EGT gauge, and a high band O2 (The Stock O2 sensors are not accurate), then you should be able to gain a noticeable amount of power. One of the most popular electronic fuel controllers is the A’PEXi S-AFC. The Fields SFC is good too.
What should I use to increase my boost level, an Electronic Boost Controller, or a Manual BC?
Using an EBC is the safest way to raise boost, it will prevent spiking and over-boosting. But it really comes down to your budget. If you can afford an EBC, get one. If you can’t, go with a MBC. And always keep an eye on that boost gauge. And whatever you are using to control boost, remember to not get carried away, I don’t recommend going regularly over 18psi.
What is the best Electronic Boost Controller?
There really is no BEST. Although the A’PEXi AVC-R is a nice unit, it provides much more control over boost than other EBCs, but it is also more complex to install, and tune. The new Blitz unit is also nice. Most of the large manufacturers make decent units. Just avoid fuzzy-logic equipped models if you still have the sequential stock turbos, they will become “confused” by the unnatural behavior of the sequential system.
When installing my EBC, do I connect it to both of the Turbo’s Wastegates?
The Primary Turbo is the only one with a wastegate. When in full twin turbo mode, the boost of both Turbos is regulated by the primary turbo’s wastegate. So, only connect it to the Primary’s.
Some people say I need to replace my ECU with a reprogrammed one, instead of just using a boost controller. Do I?
Reprogrammed ECUs for the Supra TT are VERY $$$. They are in the $1200 range. And they have not been proven to provide a significant increase in performance or safety on BPU(TM) level cars. Their merit shows itself on cars with upgraded Turbo(s). Just be sure you buy your ECU, or have it reprogrammed by a reputable shop that knows what they are doing. And have it tailored to your particular car (Driving habits, and Mods). And I would also recommend taking a look at the AEM Programmable system.
What is a safe boost level to run at BPU(TM)?
The general consensus is 17-18psi. Some people have taken it higher, but I don’t recommend it if you don’t have the money for a turbo replacement/upgrade.
Which Down-Pipe is recommended?
The RMM (or Rod Millen Motorsports) Cat-less Downpipe is the most commonly used. However many other brands exist. Some down-pipes, such as the Random Technology DP, feature an emissions legal high-flow catalytic converter.
Will a high-flow cat hurt performance?
It will have some effect on power output, but not a lot. Its exact effect on HP is not clear, but it probably costs a few hp at the most, maybe 5-15hp at BPU(TM) power levels.
What is a Down-Pipe?
It is the section of the exhaust system that connects the outlet of the Turbocharger’s Turbine section to the “Cat-Back” exhaust system. The Downpipe is also where the two catalytic converters are located, as well as the O2 sensor (or sensors in OBD-II cars).
I have an OBD2 car. Can I still install a Down-Pipe?
Yes. But unless the DP has a Catalyst and a second location for an O2 sensor, you will trip your check engine light, unless you get one of those O2 “black boxes”.
Which Exhausts are the loudest?
The Tanabe Racing Medallion, and HKS Hiper Titanium seem to be the two loudest systems.
Which Exhausts are the quietest?
The Tanabe Hyper Medallion, the discontinued Tanabe G-Power Medallion and the GReddy (SP) Street Performance seem to be the quietest. At anything less than full throttle, they are no louder than stock. But at full throttle they seem to “wake up” a bit.
What are some recommended exhaust systems?
It depends on your personal preferences. Below I will break down some of my recommendations based on certain combinations of preferences.
Subtle Styling / Very Low Cost:
-Random Technology (75mm, full stainless steel)
Subtle Styling / Low Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-GReddy Street Performance (80mm)
-Tanabe Super Hyper Medallion (80mm, full stainless steel, 50-state legal)
Subtle Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-ATR (75mm, full stainless steel)
Tasteful Styling / Low-Moderate Sound Level / Low Cost:
-HKS Dragger II (85mm)
Tasteful Styling / Low-Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-GReddy Power Extreme (80-94mm)
-HKS Super Dragger (95mm)
Tasteful Appearance / Moderate Sound Level / High Cost / Super Light:
-Veilside Tear Drop Titanium (90mm, full titanium)
Tasteful-Wild Styling / Low Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-TRD 2nd gen.
Wild Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Low Cost:
-A’PEXi N1
-HKS Hiper (75mm)
Wild Styling / Moderate Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-A’PEXi GT Spec (95mm, full stainless steel)
-Blitz NUR Spec (80mm, full stainless steel)
-HKS Hiper Carbon/Titanium (75mm, CF wrapped muffler, titanium tip)
Wild Styling / High Sound Level / Moderate Cost:
-Tanabe Racing Medallion (80mm, 50 state legal)
Wild Styling / High Sound Level / High Cost / High Flow:
-HKS Hiper Titanium (104mm, titanium muffler)
What is the cheapest route to replacing the DP and Cat-Back?
Have a custom performance exhaust shop fabricate a complete 3″ exhaust system (Turbo-to-Tip). It should cost well less that $400. And then you can use the muffler and exhaust tip of your choice.
Which Fuel Cut Eliminator is recommended?
The GReddy BCC (Boost Cut Controller) is highly recommended.
What does the Fuel Cut Eliminator do?
The factory ECU is programmed to activate a fuel cut if the manifold pressure exceeds 14-15psi. It does this as a safety measure to prevent what the ECU sees as over boosting. The Fuel Cut Eliminator effectively eliminates, or at least raises the cut to a higher pressure. A reprogrammed ECU can also eliminate this function.
Which boost gauge is recommended?
Any high quality boost gauge will work well. Accuracy is the important feature to look for. Autometer gauges are a good value. The Japanese gauges, A’PEXi, GReddy, HKS, etc., have more features, but at a much higher price.
Where can the boost gauge be installed in the interior?
If you want to mount it in the dash, the two most popular places are the Clock location (which holds a 52mm gauge), and the Air Vent beside it (which holds a 60mm gauge). You can also use an A-Pillar gauge pod.
What is the stock boost pressure?
11-12psi
Are Cam Gears a good modification for the Supra TT?
Yes, they have been shown to provide a 5-15rwhp gain on a BPU(TM)’d car. But to extract their potential, you must have them tuned, by a knowledgeable tuner, on a dyno. And most of the power gains will be seen on the exhaust side. I also recommend buying cam gears which feature 5-bolts.
Are Under Drive Pulley(s) a good modification for the Supra TT?
Most of the crank-shaft under-drive pulleys require the removal of the factory torsional damper.
This is from MKIV.com :”this is NOT an external (harmonic) balancer, as the crankshaft is fully balanced, rather it dampens both the axial twisting couples produced by the firing pulses, and the radial bending moment from the accessory drive belt.”
Basically this device provides crutial isolation between the engine driven accessories, and the crankshaft. However, removal of this can provide a 10-15rwhp gain, but at a cost for long term use.
Do I need to upgrade the ignition when upgrading to BPU(TM)?
The stock ignition system is VERY capable of supplying enough fire for a BPU(TM)’d car. The stock ignition system uses 6 large coils, one for each cylinder. So the system is capable of supporting VERY impressive HP levels. You may need to change to a colder range plug with a tighter gap (see below).
What about the spark plugs, which are recommended at BPU(TM) or higher level?
Basically you want similar plugs as stock, but a cooler heat range and a smaller gap. The stock plugs are NGK BKR6EP-11 (2978) and are platinum tipped and have a .044 (1.1mm) gap. The ideal NGK replacement for a modified Supra would be the BKR7E (6097). It is one range cooler (the ’7′), is non-platinum tipped (the lack of the ‘p’) and has a smaller .0315 gap (lack of the ‘-11′). This plug is also called the NGK 6097 and they are fairly inexpensive. Platinum tipped plugs are not desired for high power applications, Iridium plugs are more prefered. Unfortunately their doesn’t seem to be a BKR8E which might be better for high-HP Supras.
Another good plug to try is the Denso Iridium IK22 or IK24. These plugs may last longer than the above mentioned NGKs, but are also 6 times as expensive. The stock replacement plug would be the IK20, the IK22 is one step cooler, and the IK24 is two steps cooler than stock. The IK22 would be good for ~400rwhp to ~600rwhp. The IK24 would probably be a good choice above that. Two other plugs commonly used are the NGK 3330 (BCPR7ES) which differ much more from the specifications of the stock plugs than NGK 6097. Also the Rapid Fire #5 used to be very popular, but are more expensive, don’t last as long, and have fallin out of favor. Both of those plugs have been known to cause slight stumbling at idle. Plugs on Supras do not live long, usually around 5,000-10,000 miles. So I recommend replacing them with every other oil change.
What is the HKS VPC and GCC?
It is an electronic device, which electronically and physically removes the highly restrictive mass airflow sensor from the intake tract. VPC stands for Vein Pressure Converter. The HKS GCC is a device that allows further fine-tuning of the VPC.
Do I need an after-market Blow off Valve?
It is not absolutely required, but it is a good idea. The factory by-pass valve is prone to failure, and an aftermarket BOV is probably a wise investment for preventing turbo damaging compressor surge. And it sounds cool too. However, it must be noted that if you still have the factory mass-air flow sensor, a blow-off valve, which is vented to the atmosphere, may cause stumbling between shifts.
Can I run Nitrous Oxide on the Supra TT, even if I am already at BPU(TM) power levels?
Yes. Most people run 50-75 shot wet manifold systems. If you want to run a higher shot than this, you might want to consider a well-designed direct port system. I have seen as much as a 200-shot used on one of these systems, and an upgraded fuel system would be a must.
450hp just isn’t enough, what can I do?
Ah the possibilities Basically you are only limited by your imagination, and your wallet. You know what they say, speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?
The real power lies in Single and Twin turbo upgrades, and the options are limitless. You can either build a mild motor that puts out 450 RWHP all day long with instant boost response, or a 1000+ RWHP monster.
Unfortunately, things start getting more difficult after simple BPU(TM) modifications. Modification becomes more than “bolt on Downpipe, gain 50hp”. Things like tuning, parts selection, and matching combinations of parts become much more important. However, this is the case with ANY high HP car. Actually, even at exceptionally high power levels, the Supra TT is still easier to extract power from than almost any other performance car. But it should be kept in mind, that it wouldn’t be as simple as the BPU(TM) bolt-ons.
If you just want something that will toast that pesky Viper GTS. Then focus on a mild single turbo upgrade (T04S04, T60-1, SP57-SP61). Along with this, you should install a front mount intercooler, a fuel controller, fuel pulsation damper bypass and EGT gauge. This is assuming you have done all the BPU(TM) mods, plus BOV, EBC, Cam Gears. With tuning, and a few odds and ends, you should be able to pull 450-500 RWHP (490-580 crank HP) numbers while on a stock fuel system (assuming it is in great condition). This would be a total investment of approximately $6,700-$11,500 in engine/electronic components (also includes the proper gauges). If you already have the BPU(TM) mods or FMIC, etc., you will spend less than this. The difference in prices reflects the cost of higher end parts and addition of a HKS VPC to replace the restrictive stock MAF.
The next level would require a completely upgraded fuel system, and performance cams would be recommended, as well as further electronics (programmable engine management such as the AEM, or VPC/GCC/ECU combo, etc.). This would allow you to run much larger turbos and injectors. You can make it past the 700RWHP range without needing to replace the internals of the motor with stronger components, even at these power levels, if properly tuned and maintained you should retain a fair amount of reliability while still on the stock internals, as some people have eclipsed the 800RWHP level while still running stock bottom ends in their Supras. If you choose to go ahead and build up the bottom end, then the skies are the limit as far as power goes. Just make sure to have part selection, installation, and tuning done by competent and experienced persons. Although this should hold true at ANY level of modification.
Should I install a Turbo Timer?
Absolutely. Unless you don’t mind sitting in your car while it idles down every single time you need to turn the car off. A Turbo timer keeps the engine running for a preset time once you turn off the ignition. So you can remove your keys, and lock up the car and not have to worry about it, it will shut off on it’s own. This is important for the life of the turbos. If the turbos are not given time to cool down, it can overheat the oil and cause coking which will block oil flow to the turbos and damage bearings and cook seals.
How much is the Supra’s power output affected by changes in ambient temperatures?
Very noticeably, just as with most turbo cars, the Supra Twin Turbo can be very temperature sensitive. Especially with the stock turbos and intercooler. On a BPU(TM) car, I would not be surprised to see a 10 percent reduction between 50-60deg temperatures, and 90deg plus temperatures
Will the stock clutch hold the power levels of a BPU(TM) car?
It depends on the condition and wear on the stock clutch. If it is in good condition, yes, it will hold the power, pretty well in fact, although you may experience clutch slip while at full boost in high gears such as 5th and 6th. If you drive vigorously, meaning you run at high boost frequently, then the life of the stocker will be GREATLY shortened. Be surprised if you see an extra 10,000 miles after BPU(TM).
Can I resurface my flywheel when replacing the clutch?
It is not recommended. Buy a new Toyota Flywheel.
Can I install a lightweight flywheel?
Yes, but be aware that they can create a lot of noise at idle, and can transmit more vibrations and shock to the expensive Getrag transmission.
Why is pulling the TRAC fuse beneficial over just turning it off with the switch on the center console?
Just pushing the “Trac Off” button only partially disables the Trac system. It disables the Trac throttle body and TRAC funtion through the ABS System (on 93.5-96 only), but not the Trac system’s ignition timing retard function. Unplugging the Trac fuse eliminates both functions, as well as the 155mph speed limiter, which works through the trac system. The fuse can be found in the main fuse box on the driver’s side of the engine compartment. It must be noted that removing the fuse will cause the TRAC light to stay on, but you’ll get used to it.
Will the TRAC system improve the cars performance?
NO. The Trac system was calibrated to improve traction in slippery conditions. It was not calibrated with performance in mind. When the Trac system senses a loss of traction, it comes on hard, cutting power drastically; this will do nothing but hurt performance. I also would not rely on the Trac system for providing stability at high speeds, if you were to loose control, it would be too slow and clumsy, and would more than likely hamper your efforts to regain control.
How can I remove the factory 155mph speed limiter?
Remove the fuse for the Trac system. The speed limiter works through the Trac throttle body.
What is the Supra TT’s top speed with the Trac fuse removed?
There is some debate on this subject. There are rumors that 180 can be achieved. But by going with the numbers, 168-172mph in stock form seems possible.
What is the Supra TT’s maximum theoretical top speed? Can it exceed 200mph with enough power?
Lets find out.
The Supra TT with the 6-speed has a stock engine redline of 6800rpm, and a 6th gear ratio of .79:1, with a rear axle ratio of 3.13:1. Now we multiply our 6th gear ratio times our rear axle ratio, and we find out our final gear ratio is 2.472:1. Now we divide 6800rpm by our total gear reduction of 2.472:1 and we find out our rear axles, and therefore wheels are spinning at 2751rpm at 6800 engine rpms.
Now we need to calculate our tire circumference. The rear tires section width it 255mm, and the sidewall’s aspect ratio is .40, so our sidewalls are 102mm. Now, to convert this to inches, we divide this by 25.4, which equal’s 4.015 inches. Now multiply this by two, since we have two sidewalls making up the total diameter, and add the wheel diameter of 17″, and we see a total diameter of 25.031 inches. Now to find out our circumference, we multiply that number times pi (3.14), and we find out the circumference is 78.59 inches, now divide that by 12 to convert to feet. And we get 6.549 feet total circumference.
Now multiply our tire’s revolving speed, by the tire’s outside circumference, and we find that the tire is covering 18,016 feet per minute, divide that by the 5280 feet in a mile, and we find we are covering 3.412 miles per minute, now multiply that by the 60 minutes in an hour, and we find we are traveling 204.7miles per hour @ 6800rpm in 6th gear. If the engines redline is increased to 7500rpm, which it often is, because of a higher flowing turbo. Then our maximum speed would be 225.8mph, given enough power of course.
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Report Writing – How to Format a Business Report
Introduction
Report writing is a time consuming business so it is a great shame if, having devoted all that time to writing your report, the quality is such that hardly anyone can be bothered to read it. Quite frankly, most report readers do not actually read all the report; they are too short of time. You might as well know it and accept it — that is normal. They only read the parts that interest them. Frequently these are the summary, the conclusions and recommendations.
Of course, some readers do need all the details you so carefully included, they are specialists, but most do not. Most readers just need two things: that the information they want is where they expect it to be so they can find it, and that it is written clearly so that they can understand it.
It is similar to reading a newspaper. You expect the news headlines to be on the front page; the sports coverage to be at the back; the TV listings on page whatever and the editorial comment in the middle. If what you want is not in its usual place then you have to hunt for it and you may get irritated. So it is with a report.
There is a convention as to what goes where. Stick with the convention and please your readers. Break the convention and people may get slightly irritated – and bin your report.
So what is that convention, the standard format?
Standard Sections
Title Section. In a short report this may simply be the front cover. In a long one it could also include Terms of Reference, Table of Contents and so on.
Summary. Give a clear and very concise account of the main points, main conclusions and main recommendations. Keep it very short, a few percent of the total length. Some people, especially senior managers, may not read anything else so write as if it were a stand-alone document. It isn’t but for some people it might as well be. Keep it brief and free from jargon so that anyone can understand it and get the main points. Write it last, but do not copy and paste from the report itself; that rarely works well.
Introduction. This is the first part of the report proper. Use it to paint the background to ‘the problem’ and to show the reader why the report is important to them. Give your terms of reference (if not in the Title Section) and explain how the details that follow are arranged. Write it in plain English.
Main Body. This is the heart of your report, the facts. It will probably have several sections or sub-sections each with its own subtitle. It is unique to your report and will describe what you discovered about ‘the problem’.
These sections are most likely to be read by experts so you can use some appropriate jargon but explain it as you introduce it. Arrange the information logically, normally putting things in order of priority — most important first. In fact, follow that advice in every section of your report.
You may choose to include a Discussion in which you explain the significance of your findings.
Conclusions. Present the logical conclusions of your investigation of ‘the problem’. Bring it all together and maybe offer options for the way forward. Many people will read this section. Write it in plain English. If you have included a discussion then this section may be quite short.
Recommendations. What do you suggest should be done? Don’t be shy; you did the work so state your recommendations in order of priority, and in plain English.
Appendices. Put the heavy details here, the information that only specialists are likely to want to see. As a guide, if some detail is essential to your argument then include it in the main body, if it merely supports the argument then it could go in an appendix.
Conclusions and Recommendations
In conclusion, remember that readers expect certain information to be in certain places. They do not expect to hunt for what they want and the harder you make it for them the more likely they are to toss you report to one side and ignore it. So what should you do?
1. Follow the generally accepted format for a report: Summary, Introduction, Main Body, Conclusions, Recommendations and Appendices.
2. Organise your information in each section in a logical fashion with the reader in mind, usually putting things in order of priority – most important first.
Good luck with your report writing!
Author: Tony Atherton
© Tony Atherton 2005)